How would you explain the Fast & Light philosophy in one sentence?
Means for me, freedom, freedom of movement in the mountains.
Who inspired or mentored you to go in this style?
I was always inspired by mountaineers that chose that style like Loretan, Troillet, Kurtyka but for sure the one person who would change my mindset and my approach was Ueli Steck, he was a mentor, a friend and a climbing partner. He had the most impact.
What are the plus and cons for you?
It has a lot of benefits, in one side is the freedom of movement, lightness, the terrain you can cover in the same day and you go away from dangerous passages way quicker. On the other hand you have to accept the rules you take on that style and that means that for exemple you have to turn around earlier because you can’t stay on the mountain because you don’t have a sleeping bag and a tent with you, or that you can’t climb the next pitch because its to dificult because you don’t have the right protection gear with you.
What does an ascent in fast & light style make you feel compared to traditional style?
I feel so much more freedom, I feel closer somehow it is less layers between me and the mountain, the lightnes is not in only in the backpack but also happens inside my head, how I feel on the mountain is a way less weight.
Do you remember the first climb on F&L?
I think it was in 2007 in K2 when we tried to do it in a single push. But we had some camps and fixed ropes in the mountain so it wasn’t really alpine style, so the first time without any compromises it was 2016 with Ueli Steck and we just had a day pack and wanted to climb the hole face up & down in Shishapagma.
Your best climb/s in fast & light style?
Was on the same mountain Shishapagnma south face when I came back a year later 2017 with Herve Barmasse and we managed to climb the face in 13h, we changed and adapted the style a bit and we had to stop 5m below the summit because avalanche but it showed us and we achieved what we wanted to climb the hole face in one day.