29 Març 2013

#FF Inspirations

Kyanji, after 3 weeks here (books finish, labels of all clothes read, also all the stickers in the windows) they open the bakery of the village. More than for the cakes (they have chocolate and apple pie) we’re happy to read some books they have from tourist than leave there. In between Murakamis, English classicals, one Italian book and Nepal trekking books it was one American Alpine Journal (from 2004 I thinks) In between all the articles of this year greatest ascensions it was some mail correspondence between some of the greatest climbers (Mark Twight, Steve House, Will Gad, Valery Babanov…) under the subject if high level in mix climbing want to increase the level in high mountains ascents. This was a interesting discussion about what’s alpinism, what’s the elite in alpinism, where we go…

One of my peers there, Jordi Corominas has in his website a interesting “Alpinist dictionary” ( ) and this is the K:

What defines an alpinist? Or does it have to be defined? What are his skills and his masters? What do he leave behind? Currently we are in a world where we being totally dismembered humans to know our parts, see how it Works in every corner of the body machine. Today there are sports facilities, training programs and programs to find all kinds of new promises from earliest childhood. As in other sports in the mountains also seek the fundamentalingredients of the athlete. A mountaineer future possibility could be:
First he will need to be a good rock climber. For example to open pathways and climbing to a level around 8a/8a +. As anyone who deviates from the standard left a stamp sport which aims therefore undertake a pathway in solo (without cord) of 7c +, of course a long distance way and where the difficulty is not in the first meters. This climber also demonstrate that has a broad vision bringing something new to the sport, such as a new graduate of rock climbing. In their native mountains, or closer to their place of residence, have he pitch to put into practice all the techniques of the Alpine world. Open new paths of VI/A3, or free climbing. After that, the winter ascents comes, then first repeating, and then opening a route. Always making a difference to the routes are negligible: the excessively or poorly equipped, the difficulty of repeating, the materials made with long timings or excessive equipement, and retouch the crossing routes and variants, etc. And eventually he will repeat some great European routes, for example in the Troll (Romsdal, Norway). But as always innovating in this case could make the first winter ascent. Then moving to open new routes in the Alps mythical walls as in the north face of the Grandes Jorasses or Dru. With this knowledge acquired should be devoted to cross the mountain ranges of the world, mainly Himalaya and Karakorum. Their premises will be as clear and straight as railways: open routes, always in alpine style, with minimalism in terms of equipment, and small groups and without external support. No matter the size of the mountain that the route will be sought "the mountain route" to tell him, since you have already written an article as, "shining wall" or "The art of suffering." He climb with French, Swiss, Japanese, Italian, Polish, English, Germans, Americans ... to climb routes in mountains of six, seven and eight thousand feet. Since the inauguration of two-way to two eight thousand different peaks in the same season. Pass, for example, thirty years and no one will repeat its routes. That future elite will be unable to keep up with him, let alone any of the media who are only famous shadow players. And of course he will have to perform an activity of this magnitude and charisma that will remain in the annals as one of the ten key routes in the history of mountaineering. The future member of the elite of the mountains, possess a strict ethics never neglect to not fall into the temptation of the banal and easy, unlimited honesty never added anything to not have not done, and humility enough to neglect the fame, and speak and write it right: "The essence of the adventure is placed in an unknown position from which we know will happen." This futuristic project that we are currently talking about is sixty-eight years, and his name is Wojciech Kurtyka.

Kurtyka generation was really inspiring; climb not for the difficulty but for elegance and style. Mountain is the place where everybody can found his place to search his happiness, running in easy trails, climbing hard sportsclimbing routes, walking in normal routes to reach summits, climbing alpine routes, paragliding, skiing… at the end we’re there to take pleasure, to enjoy, to complete our life. But the alpinist is the one who go to the unknown, to discover, a place of no one was before, that see in the rock, not just a rock, but also a line. Alpinism level maybe is not about the numbers you can reach, they’re just the tools to paint what his mind can imagine. The true strength (or the stupidity) of great alpinists is to say in front of the white paper “why we can’t do this like this?” and go, go to the unknown without fear to fail, because with success you can’t found the strength to grow.

They’re today not conforming to the success of repetitions, of doing well. They’re today finding the fail, finding to look mountains different. Lluis Claret, a famous violoncellist from spain tells me one time “In our sound we can found the voice of many of people, our sound, our voice, is also the testimony of the people we have loved and admired, who have taught us and influenced.

I want to present you 5 alpinist, athletes, climbers, tell as you want, than I follow to keep inspired:

Ueli Steck – speed climbing, hight technical level now going to himalayas

Alex Honnold – free solo climbing, climb the most awesome walls in solo

Mark Twight – alpine style forever and punk style

Steve House – alpine style around all the world

Pierre Tardivel – more tan 100 first extreme ski descents, imagination and technique